A few post hike thoughts...

As you can obviously see by the somewhat clear (ha!) picture I posted
earlier, I completed my thru-hike of the Appalachian trail today. The
summit of Katahdin was nothing like I expected....In a million
years. First of all, I have never, to this very moment actually seen
the mountain. Except for a glimpse of only part of it the other day,
it has been completely enshrouded in clouds from afar and very much so
close up. This will give you a little bit of insight into the weather
we have had in Maine. I would even have to go so far as to say, this
was the most intense hike I have ever done. Compounded by being the
end of an incredibly long journey, was the fact that I think I picked
one of the worst weather days possible. I say this now knowing that
tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and in the 60's as opposed to today
in the 20's with driving rain, sleet, incredible winds, and you
guessed it...snow.
I wanted to turn around and get someplace warm and dry more than once
today. But I had no intention of hiking 2,173.9 miles without
completing the last 5.2.

Remember my pants? Well. Today was their victory dance because one of
the issues I was having today was wrestling them into submission while
I climbed up the sides of slick rock faces. Not only did the snap come
off the other day, but today, the zipper fell apart (in addition to
the now 5" vent hole I had working in the back). Now,don't get me
wrong...I'm not really complaining, because they have given me not
just six months, but actually years of service. And they picked today
to die. So what happens when material gets fully saturated with water
and ice? They become really heavy. That's what. And what happens when
pants you can't keep up already become really heavy? Trouble. That's
what. So, in addition to the superbly horrific conditions, I was like
I said earlier, wrestling with pants all day. I did not see the naked
guy on the mountain today, but thankfully I didn't join him either.

As I sit here in Millinocket, Maine, warm and dry (finally!),
reflecting on the day, I am really still in shock that I am finished.
I do not have to get up and hike tomorrow? Saying goodbye to people
all afternoon that have been like family has been unbelievably sad.
Even though we were all celebrating and yelling and screaming and
wahooing all day, I will not see any of these people probably ever
again. Finishing is bitter sweet I must admit.

So what did I learn in six months of living outside? Simplicity, my
friends. There is so little we truely need. Shelter, food, water, and
a little help from our friends. Speaking of which, I want to send a
special thank you to all of you. All the support, love, comments,
emails...I cannot tell you how much it helped me through this entire
odyssey. This journey has completely restored my faith in humanity
and I am full of gratitude.

I CAN DO ANYTHING!

Last night on the trail...

I am actually here. I am only 5.2 miles from the conclusion of this
adventure (not including the return trip down the mountain...unless I
just stand on the summit and declare I am through....no more hiking).
Hmmm. I am in the Birches Lean-to at Katahdin Stream Campground. It is
so surreal to be here. I cannot say this is what I thought it would be
like. Because I certainly did not picture the hike here today to be a
cold rainy endurance test, complete with two deep, fast moving fords.
I was soaked after the first one, not because I fell in, but that it
was raining, and it was so deep I was in up to my shorts and then I
leaned over to grab a boulder to keep from falling and my boots got
wet. Wetter I should say. Yes, it has been a really really long
journey here. But that is going to make it all the sweeter when I grab
that sign tomorrow and let out a WAHOOOO! this world has yet to hear.
That's what I'm talking about.

(Monday) 15.1 miles to go...

Yet another rainy day on the AT, this one of course only stands out
because it is the second to last one. I am camping at the Abol Bridge
Campground, just past the 100 mile wilderness and just outside of
Baxter State Park. I am really here! Baxter State Park! A place I
have dreamed about for what seems like forever. It is absolutely
nothing like I expected. Shockingly, it's just like being outside a
logging camp. The only vehicles you ever see are logging trucks
carrying full loads of slaughtered trees.

We will be climbing Katahdin the day after tomorrow. It's a 30 percent
chance of showers. Or does that mean it's only going to rain 30
percent of the time? Hmmm. Today was 60 percent and it's been raining
off and on all day. But what else is new.

I also have a new blister on my toe. Yes, a new blister. I would be
surprised except it's from hiking in wet boots with wet socks. All the
time. It was nice to get here to this campground, though. Although
they do not have laundry facilities, they do have coin operated hot
showers which is a total luxury on a cold, windy, rainy day. Even if
you have to dry yourself off with a dirty wet bandana and put dirty
clothes back on. Two more days!

(Sunday p.m.) miles to go: 30.1

First of all, a huge THANK YOU to Kumquat's parents for the great
trail magic! Your homeade pralines and brownies are exquisite. It's
amazing how much enjoyment you can get out of eating sandwiches on the
side of a dirt road in the middle of nowhere. And I mean nowhere. How
they found their way to that logging road in the middle of the 100
mile wilderness is beyond me.

Did I ever mention the water in Maine?Well, for starters, there is a
lot of it. I mean everywhere. Ponds, lakes, streams, brooks, bogs, and
even all over the ground. Yes, I am talking about mud. You thought
Vermont was muddy? Think again. You see, apparently there is not
enough dirt here, so under the tiny layer of topsoil is rock, so there
is nowhere for the water to go, so it sits there. And makes mud. And
bogs. And muddy bogs. And the wonderful MATC and AMC (thanks for all
your hard work) have constructed all these "bog bridges" out of
planks...in 1964. Some of them seem more recent, but I have to say,
one of the more dangerous parts of hiking around here is the half-
rotten, slimy algae covered wood planks propped up on rocks and other
rotting chunks of wood that sometimes sink down lower than the muddy
water when you step on it. When I put my poles down, sometimes they
just keep going...as in feet deep. My favorite is when the bogs are
large and they put up signs that say "Please stay on trail. Fragile
bog environment". Really? You have to tell me to stay on these little
pieces of plywood? I can't step off, maybe up to my armpits, or who
knows...maybe my neck, not even once. Please? Trust me people. I am
trying my very hardest to stay on the "trail". Even where the bog
bridges have completely deteriorated beyond recognition.

Oh, I was talking about the water. I digress. Yes, the water.
Sometimes it's brown. In fact, it's brown a lot. I don't mind it now,
at first it was a little disconcerting. Back when we first noticed
some of the streams were brackish, we all made fun and joked around
that it looked like pee. Hahaha. But here, it is not only brown, but
sometimes tastes like dirt with a peppery bite to it....mixed with
Aqua Mira. Yum. Yeah, I gotta say, I won't miss drinking Maine
water. However, I will say, some of those ponds, streams, and brooks
have been some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Even
the ones with brown water.

Having hiked almost 44 miles in the past two days, I am now staring at
the very last page of my guidebook. It is completely surreal to think
this hike really is almost over. I saw my very first glimpse of
Katahdin today. It was ordinary yet extraordinary all at the same
time. I wonder how that will change once I am standing upon it.

(Sunday) Miles to go: 51.1

I watched the most beautiful sunrise this morning across the Mary Jo
Pond. It truely was a serene moment, complete with loons calling out
in the distance. The sun has finally come out and the terrain has
completely mellowed out. For the first time in a while, I am really
looking forward to hiking today.

Thursday (mile 2095.0 miles left 84.1)

I am camped next to a loud gurgling river, with a cascady waterfall
about eight feet from my head. It's very peaceful even though it's
raining and has been off and on all day. The sun peaked out a few
times, but that was usually right before it rained the hardest.

We climbed the "Chairbacks" today. It was a set of four or so brutal
little peaks that were just enough to completely wear me out. Where do
these mountains get their names? I have noticed that you never see
"fluffy bunny" mountain or "strawberry shortcake" mountain. They all
have to sound mean and scary. Tomorrow's mountain of the day is White
Cap. Yeah, that sounds easy, although I left my ice axe and climbing
rope at home. Even though it looks particularly steep, it's the last
gasp before Katahdin. So there.

I am trying to really enjoy these last few days, knowing some day I
will long for this time again. I find it difficult, not because it has
gotten cold, or that it seems to rain every day now, or that all my
gear and clothing is basically falling apart before my very eyes
(remember the duct tape on the butt? The hole, complete with new duct
tape, is about 4" long now), but because I am ready to go home now. I
am tired of hiking. It seems with all this walking, I should have
gotten some where by now.

Tuesday

I am camped at the Long Pond Stream Lean-to with 99.4 miles to go.
Finally double digits. It is pretty obvious when you talk to most thru-
hikers at this point that we are all weary and ready to be done. Not
to say that in two months I will not miss the trail and this
lifestyle, but it feels, at least for me, that I have been out here
forever. It is time.

It rained off and on for most of the day. The terrain on the profile
map looked fairly benign but was misleading. Besides the four river
fords, it was constantly up and down. The hundred mile wilderness so
far has been rocky, rooty, slippery, rainy, and steep. Yep, that
pretty much sums it up. Oh, yeah, it's pretty too.

In Monson, my last trail town...

One more pair of shoes....

Well, my first pair of boots that I began hiking with have been called
back into action. I had bought my first new replacement pair after
about 400 miles and retired the originals because of so many foot
issues. (Marge and Lefty did not properly articulate to me at the time
that it was the inserts, socks, and sock liners that could be the
problem.) Four pair of boots and shoes later....It feels like I just
bought my most recent trail runners just a few weeks ago, but it was
back in early Vermont and I knew they would not last the whole rest of
the trip. So thanks to mom for sending the boots along with some yummy
goodies to Caratunk. It is odd to finish the hike with the same pair
I started with. But alas, I digress. The whole point of this
ridiculously long story about footwear is where my old ones ended up.
So I noticed a while back that this hiker "Cowgirl" had the same
Montrail trail runners that I was wearing. Hers were in much worse
shape than mine were in. I told her as long as the boots still fit,
she could have my old ones. We were only a half size apart and she was
absolutely thrilled to get them. One hikers trash is another hikers
treasure. Even old smelly shoes coming apart at the seams.

I have to say, the hiker box resupply has made for an interesting day
of food. Gobs of peanut butter on a dry crumbly bagel and smushed
granola bars for lunch (along with a full day supply of Starbursts
that came from the trail magic I am going to talk about in a
minute....) And for dinner? The forever loved Ramen noodles with
handfuls of everything I could find in my food bag, which today was
trail mix and Combo's. (Really? Man am I ready to eat real food again
soon!) Ok. So there was this big plastic tub by the road and a cooler.
The cooler was empty and the bin was almost empty except for the bag
of travel size deoderants and a bunch of Starbursts. Thanks trail
magic person whoever you are!! The candy is always appreciated but the
"Petal Bliss" scented deoderants hit the spot. Even Safari got in on
the flowery smelling armpit action. I of course made fun of him all
day long for smelling so girly even though the occasional wiff of
"Petal Bliss" that eminated from the both of us was a pleasant change.

Miles to go: 151

I am enjoying the day off in Caratunk, Maine (Or Car trunk as it has
been enthusiastically named by dad). It's especially nice when the
long sought after rest coincides with the passing by of a rainstorm,
or perhaps maybe a hurricane. (We won we won we won! We got here
before the storm!) We did thoroughly enjoy the canoe ferry across the
Kennebec river. What a treat.

Unfortunately, it looks like I will be in a cell service black hole
for part of or even most of the remaining hike. Here at Northern
Outdoors (a most awesome outdoorsy hiking rafting dirt biking kind of
lodge) I am fortunate enough to be in the presence of wifi. There
apparently is no cell service for miles... As in many, many miles.
This remains true for the 100 mile wilderness I will be entering in
just a few short days. I will however, keep writing the posts, they
may just get posted all at once.

One thing we did not fully take into consideration when we decided to
come here was the inability to get to any kind of store to do a
resupply. This is where the magic of the "hiker box" comes into play.
I might have mentioned these random boxes of goodies and the not so
great cast-offs of other hikers before. Safari and I completely
resupplied ourselves from the hiker box here at Northern Outdoors.
Shocking, I know. "Sleepy" got a resupply box in the mail here with
too much food and we just happened to be there when he dumped his
entire box into the hiker box. So, thank you Sleepy's mom! As usual,
the trail provides.

179 to go...

Disclaimer:

This is for entertainment purposes only. If this were an actual
emergency... well, you probably would not here about it until it was
resolved, actually. Although I appreciate all the offers of new
apparel, I assure you all that I will not, I repeat will NOT, be
standing at the summit of Katahdin naked. If for some reason, my
clothes continue in their haste to disintigrate, I will take action in
some appropriate fashion. Ok, now that I have that cleared up, I will
confess, the whole part about the snickers in frosting? Truth. In
fact, when we hitched into town today to resupply in Stratton, I was
looking for chocolate frosting. Thank goodness I got distracted and it
was not on my shopping list. Ugh.

We actually hiked up and over several large mountains this morning,
hitched into town to eat and resupply, and hitched back to the trail
to hike another five miles. Uphill. With full bellies. Very full
bellies. In fact, I had eaten an entire small cheese pizza and about
40 glasses of root beer. And chocolate milk. And OJ. I didn't think
I was actually going to make it to Horns Pond. But here I am. Whew.